Recently, Ghana’s iconic Kente cloth was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.This global recognition under the 2003 Convention for Safeguarding Intangible Cultural Heritage highlights the cultural and historical significance of the vibrant, handwoven textile. It is a huge turning point for Ghana and indeed the whole of Africa to have an article of history recognised at a global level.
Kente has a long history in African cultural heritage. Originating from Ghana’s Asante and Ewe communities, Kente is renowned worldwide for its bold colours, intricate patterns, and deep symbolic meanings, embodying the creativity and identity of the Ghanaian people.
Tourism Minister Andrew Egyapa Mercer described the recognition as a testament to Ghana’s commitment to preserving its cultural heritage. “This achievement places Ghana at the forefront of global efforts to safeguard and celebrate cultural traditions,” he noted.
It was a win for the stakeholders in Ghana’s cultural sector as the Tourism Minister went on to thank the artisans, cultural institutions, and traditional authorities who contributed to this milestone. The Bonwire and Agotime communities were specially recognised for their enduring role as custodians of the craft.
Where does that leave Nigeria’s Adire? It signals hope that one day, the traditional fabric will be given such recognition. To be sure, “adire” comes from the Yoruba words adi meaning “to tie” and re meaning “to dye”. The technique dates back to the 1800s, but the term was first used in the early 20th century.
The earliest Adire clothes were probably simple tied designs on hand-spun cotton. Later, new techniques were developed, including hand-painting designs with cassava starch paste, using metal stencils, and sewing raffia.
Adire is most commonly made using a deep indigo dye, but can also be made in other colors. The cloth is usually made up of two strips of cotton sewn together to form a square, and is worn as a wrap around the body. Adire became increasingly popular in the 1920s, and by the 1960s it had gained popularity around the world, especially in America. The hippie movement adopted the tie-dyed indigo cloth.
Adire is a craft largely associated with the Abeokuta women. The Adire was first produced in Jojola’s compound of Kemta, Abeokuta by Chief Mrs. Miniya Jojolola Soetan, the second Iyalode (Head of Women) of Egba land, and later passed the process to her children and onward to the future generations.
Adire is regarded as one of the most sought-after locally made fabrics from Abeokuta, attracting hordes of traders and tourists daily. They come to patronise female entrepreneurs, learn from their expertise, and marvel at the intricate craftsmanship.
With the creativity of couture, Adire is well-positioned for global recognition. But Nigeria needs stronger enforcement to fight counterfeit Adire that currently floods the major markets nationwide.
